AMERICAN author, journalist and playwright Christopher Morley once exclaimed, “Lord! When you sell a man a book you don’t sell just 12 ounces of paper and ink and glue – you sell him a whole new life.”
You can see the truth in this at The Moat Bar and Cafe. Lone diners are so heavily immersed in their novels they sink deeply into the cushiony banquettes. A table of ladies debates a book club tome and two students lift their eyes momentarily for a sip of Cricketer’s Arms (on tap, $5) or to nibble at a bowl of tangy lemon salted almonds ($5).The Moat is housed in the basement of Melbourne’s hub for literature and thinking, the Wheeler Centre. But it’s much more than an offshoot. Staying true to the building’s 19th century heritage, owners Paul Bonet, Rosie Avitable and chef Emma Jeffrey have created a space that feels classically bookish with an injection of groove.
Rich red carpet, book-lined walls (book swapping is encouraged) and heavy wooden furniture is enlivened by a refreshingly modern tiled bar, central open kitchen and a cute Alice in Wonderland-esque artificial grass outdoor courtyard and entrance.
Bonet and Avitable ran city cafe Breadwell for years and the experience shows. Service is friendly and efficient and staying, enjoying and relaxing is encouraged. Bless.
The wine list matches the pared-back mood. There are seven whites and eight reds (including house); the list of wines by the glass should keep most happy, although it errs on the pricier side. Jeffrey’s worked at such establishments as Fenix, Sapore and Matteo’s and apprenticed under Annie Smithers, and the influences are evident. She manages to mix modern Italian and Middle Eastern flavours and pull them together in dishes that stay true to the individual ingredients.
Oily and intense marinated white anchovies ($14) are grounded by smoky cherry tomatoes, the crunch of slivered almonds and sprightly micro herbs.
Nothing beats the blues like a good dahl and Jeffrey’s green lentil version ($16) is a sure fire winner. It had a good thick texture and was flavoursome, with decent doses of the required spice and heat. Yoghurt was lifted by mint and tangy apple which, when added to the dahl, gave it a subtle kick. Perfectly warmed naan was the finishing touch to this gem.
A side of sweet potato ($8) sat in its jacket alongside creamy smoked paprika aioli. The sweet potato was indeed sweet and juicy and wonderfully earthy.
The little pot custard trio ($12) didn’t have the balance I had hoped for. The chai flavour could have used another helping of chai, the pistachio flavour fewer nuts, and the Nutella – well, who would ever complain about Nutella?
Regardless, The Moat Bar and Cafe really is lovely; a wonderful respite that just might give you a new take on life.
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The Moat Bar and Cafe
Basement 176 Little Lonsdale Street, city
Call 9094 7820 Visit themoat.com.au
Hours Monday–Friday 8am–10pm, Saturday
noon–late
Perfect for
• a romantic soiree
• bookish types
• a fun catch up with friends
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